Articles and Publications
From time to time I like to write about my trips. I kept a blog for a while, but lately have been posting my stories through the medium of Moja Gear. Following are a few recounts of trips and personal projects.
Mt. Tetnuldi (Svaneti, Georgia) Camp 4 journal. Summit attempt day. 3am. I awake from fitful sleep still living in the nightmare I had just been having; a death dream, again.
This time in the dream I was sliding off the summit ridge, my ice axe pawing uselessly at the slick ice under my hurtling body—the third of such dreams since we started. Groggily, I acknowledge that this climb has me pretty keyed-up...
Journal – Jan. 7, 2014: It’s 2 a.m. and I am wide awake.
We are currently at 19,600 feet and the goal is to get to 22,841 today. I roll over in my sleeping bag and try to snooze off the pain. The plan is to leave the tent by 6 a.m. At 5 I get up to force down some oatmeal. The headache lingers painfully, but my new Scandinavian friends are supportive. I am not sure I will be summiting today.
"You have to come. This is the day you will summit Aconcagua and the weather is perfect."
Man, wouldn’t it be great to finish this thing today?
Gear Testing - A strength test study
I became a climber back in engineering college. As I learned “‘the ropes” I began to realize (as I think all beginner climbers do) that our sport has quite a few unanswered questions regarding the technical limitations of gear; questions like, "how much does rope wear reduce the strength of a carabiner?" or "how strong are old slings and webbings in comparison to new ones?" or even, "how does the load printed on the spine of a carabiner actually relate to the breaking strength of that carabiner?"
With a little research and testing I was able to answer these questions...
Introduction to Aid Climbing
Use this guide as a basic introduction to aid climbing. Remember, learning about rock climbing online serves as a tool, but in no way are written articles a substitute for hands-on instruction. Failure to follow appropriate safety measures could result in serious injury or death. If just getting started, seek professional climbing courses offered by AMGA-certified guiding services. Be smart, and climb safe.
Attempt on Cerro Bello
A small group of Club Wechupun members and I set out to explore a 17,060 ft peak about four hours outside of Santiago called Cerro Bello. Expecting hard packed snow and late Spring conditions we were instead greeted with an unexpected snowstorm and spent the weekend doing more swimming than summiting in the soft champagne pow. It was not a successful weekend in that we did not reach the top, but we all learned a valuable lesson in the basics of this dangerous sport: Always be conscious...
Crossing the Andes via Cerro San Ramon
I do not usually consult my local grocer for mountaineering advice, but I really have to give credit where it is due to the suggestion of local grocery store fruit clerk, Sean, for the sheer joy that this last weekend’s jaunt up Cerro San Ramón brought me...